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Five-step face is perfect for holiday hostess

December 19, 2009|By TIFFANY ARNOLD

The catalyst for change came during Christopher Drummond's modeling days.

Makeup was making his skin look chalky and ashy and he was sick of it. So much so, created his own makeup line in order to spare women the same frustration.

Drummond, a New York-based makeup artist and aesthetician, was at South Mountain Day Spa in Boonsboro earlier this month marketing his debut line of cosmetics, Christopher Drummond Beauty.

He recently chatted with The Herald-Mail, offering tips for readers who want to look put together, but don't have a lot of time for lengthy primping. After all, they've got holiday parties to host.


The good news? "It's really simple, you just have to know what you like," he said.

Drummond, 39, is of Italian and African-American ethnicity and it shows in his complexion. But he said as a person of color and model during the 1990s, it was difficult to find makeup whose tones matched his complexion and didn't appear chalky on his face.

He said he was also having a hard time finding makeup made from natural ingredients.

While there are niche makeup companies that cater specifically to people of color, Drummond made it clear that his makeup line is for people of all shades.

"I always like to work with colors that work for anybody and everybody," he said. "That way, nobody feels like they're being ruled out."

Drummond walked us through five or fewer easy steps for makeup and how to do a "smoky eye" in three.

The five-step face

1. Cleanse

"The important thing is to prep the skin properly," Drummond said.

This means washing your face. Drummond said he prefers cream cleansers over foaming cleansers, which he said can be drying.

"You don't want something that will strip all the oil from your skin," Drummond said.

Oil helps the skin maintain a proper moisture balance.

"So if you're constantly stripping off all the oil from your skin, you have no protection," Drummond said. "You have no natural moisture barrier."

2. Moisturize

Which brings us to the next step - moisturization. Drummond said you could use either a moisturizer or a facial primer, a product that is applied to the face before you put on makeup.

What is the difference between a moisturizer and a primer? The label on the bottle.

"To be frank, a moisturizer and a primer are the same thing," Drummond said.

The bottom line: Makeup goes on smoother and lasts longer on a well-moisturized face.

3. Even out your complexion

Drummond suggested taking a concealer and putting it where you need it, using small amounts and blending well.

"I'm not a huge proponent of taking a liquid foundation and slathering all over your face," Drummond said. "No. 1, you can feel it, so it feels like you have an awful lot of garbage on your face, and it looks like you have a whole bunch of makeup on."

Drummond said that if you're OK with the concealer touchup, then you're good to go. You can stop at Step 3.

If not, Drummond recommended taking a powder foundation to even out the skin tone and to give your skin a glow. "You won't look run down, you won't look tired," Drummond said. "Your skin will look revitalized."

4. The eyes

Gold is generally fail-proof for the holidays, though purple tones are the trend.

Drummond said you can apply the eye-shadow wet for a cocktail party or dry for an everyday or more subtle look.

5. Lipstick or lip gloss

Women generally fall into two camps - lipstick people and lip gloss wearers. Which ever team you're on, the key is picking a quality product.

Drummond recommends doing the half-hour test - a half hour after putting on your lip wear, ask yourself if it has feathered or appears uneven? Do your lips feel dry?

Good lip wear holds up.

The color trends this year: Cherry red, rich dark reds, rich purples and plum hues.

The three-step smoky eye

If you're really playing it up. You might want to consider the smoky eye.

"That's my most requested look," makeup artist Chris Drummond said.

What he's proposing is really more of a "smolder" eye, in which a dark color seems to fade into the black liner at the base of the upper lash.

1. Apply a base color

You would have already applied makeup - everything except your eyes. Use a beige eye shadow as the base.

2. Line your lashes

Apply a black liner along the base of the upper lash and blend it in. Your eyes will look like a raccoon's if you don't blend.

Drummond recommends using a cream-to-powder or pencil because they're easy to use and more forgiving than liquid liners, which have a steeper learning curve if you're not used to using them.

To intensify the look, apply liner to lower lashes, too.

3. Apply color

Pick an eye shadow in a deep color, such as a plum or a dark brown and apply above the liner. Blend until there are no visible lines, creating a soft a gradient effect.

It helps to have a blending brush.

If you want to make it more intense, add another layer of color.

Finish with a swoop of mascara.

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